I’ve still got adrenaline, in large quantities, coursing through me as I write this. The holiday in Coorg turned out to have some unexpected twists and turns, and ended being up an adventure really; just the way I like it. As I was saying, it was an exciting experience in adrenaline equaled only by that feeling of contentment that settles on one after several days of good food. I am glad I keep a diary of my travels…this way, I can share impressions with fellow adventurers without missing essentials. This is my story of Coorg…
We were in Coorg, six of us including our host, Aiyappah who traveled between Chennai and Coorg in a combination of train and car transport. We were a motley crew, five boys and a girl…however, we have traveled together before…the understanding that develops makes travel so much easier don’t you think? The Coorgs, in case you haven’t come across one, are an hospitable race of people. They treat their guests very well paying particular respect and attention to their gustatory needs – a cure-all for early morning drowsiness was “bed-coffee” prepared by our host’s mother…the Coorgs enjoy their coffee strong. We would be spending most of our time with Aiyappah and his family in his estate, and some of it with Achal, a friend with whom I shared digs with while in Melbourne.
Coorg has its land shared amongst about 250 families which maintain a fierce rivalry between each other – this rivalry takes on an entirely new dimension when the annual hockey festival takes place. Interestingly, and as is generally the case with large sporting gatherings where families are involved, this event serves not only as a display of prowess of the Coorgi male while playing sport but also as a ’sanctioned’ spot for eligible young Coorgis to meet each other under the watchful eyes of their parents. The Coorgi race is a good looking one and their manner and culture quite different from the Hindu majority. They worship not idols but rather nature. Achal belongs to the Kuppanda family and Aiyappah to the Ichettras.
Sunday morning was a planned vist to meet Achal at his farm estate about 30 kms from Aiyappah’s. Achal’s mainstay was coffee and pepper, as is the case with every other Coorgi farmer. However, he had innovated in response to the falling prices of coffee and pepper in the world markets by diversifying into Anthurium production. These flowers grow in a variety of colors, typically flower 7 times a year and live for about 7 years. He was selling primarily to the local market in Bangalore, where wholesalers consolidated shipments from various Coorgi suppliers, and those outside of Coorg such as Keralite suppliers. He also had ambitious plans, when he had the volumes and quality to sell, in the more competitive but higher margin export market.
Now to the highlight of the trip was quite easily the river rafting experience across a 13 km winding stretch of the Cauvery. The Cauvery, which has been at the centre of a dispute between the Indian states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, is teeming with rapids during the rainy season between June and August. However, our trip made in October meant that the water levels were much lower than that during the peak season.
This implied that effort would be required on our parts, the rowers…we just didn’t realize how much. Our guides were equally clueless… they had taken us on because Aiyappah’s father, a friend of theirs, had requested them to. Their last expedition was a couple of months back during season. We set out on our journey expecting it to take about 2 hours. It lasted six. We were unprepared for the heat, the thirst and the exhaustion that set in towards the middle of the journey. We had to haul our 55 kilo raft (this didn’t include the weight due to spillage of water into the boat) over the extremely slippery bottom during the raft’s numerous stops; rock was our enemy. Normally this wouldn’t have been the case when the water levels were higher…however, we were traveling almost a metre and a half below rainy season level.
At the risk of being termed immodest, it was an application of spirit and determination that got us across to our destination; and the thought of food, of course. I don’t think I’d want to repeat this particular experience in a hurry. That said, I am raring to experience ‘white water rafting’ as its meant to be – force 4 rapids over sheer drops of 35 + feet.
Have you tasted Coorgi Pork also called ‘Pandi Curry’. It would be a good reason to convert if only to be able to taste it. It is normally accompanied by rice and ghee (a form of butter). Allow me to succinctly describe the combination as “delicious”. It would be in any scenario…however, this was our first real meal, prepared by Aiyappah’s mother, after our rafting experience and we were ravenous. We, literally, fell to eating it…ahhh…bliss.
I trust you enjoyed that little diversion into Coorgi culture…
